The first year I cooked eggnog, the result was a combination of lumps and slime. Not even the high-proof white lightening we poured in–the Malawian jungle juice known as Powers No 1–could cure the stuff.

We were Peace Corps Volunteers celebrating Christmas in the back of beyond. We had most of the right ingredients, fresh eggs, sugar, and whole milk, but the pots we had barely approximated no-stick. The mixture scrambled itself on the bottom before being stirred back up to the top. We drank the goop anyway.

Decades later, I make the stuff more easily. First the custard: six eggs, 5 cups whole milk, 2/3 cup sugar, over medium heat until it thickens. An ice bath follows, then overnight refrigeration. Before serving, add 2 cups of fresh cream whipped up good, shaved nutmeg, then your choice of spirit.

In Saudi Arabia I used Johnnie Walker, bootlegged in by shipping containers marked ‘office supplies’ and inventoried as tea.

In Nicaragua I used their home-grown Flor de Cana, rum aged seven years.

In Ghana I experimented with brandies and whiskey. The result always surprised me, my Ghanaian colleagues devouring the custard plus cream plus a 40-proof liquor.

In Mexico–tequila. Yes.

In Washington I made it using all of the above. More memorable than the heady booze was biking across the Roosevelt Bridge in 30-degree weather, crossing the Potomac at the tail-end of a 13 mile ride with several quarts of the custard in my bike bag. In town I learned that Cool Whip could substitute fresh whipping cream.

Mumbai was next, eggs not so popular.

I need a new experiment this year and don’t know what it will be. Beating in vanilla ice cream? Vodka and peppermint schnapps? Avoid the whole unhealthy ordeal altogether and welcome the man in the big red suit with some cookies?

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